Wednesday, October 31, 2007

WGSN

An interesting tidbit via PSFK. It talks about how WGSN is a crutch for designers that ultimately makes them less creative. I had a free subscription as a student and was encouraged to use it, but I found it quite clunky and uninteresting (although in light of this article I'd be interested to take a look at it again). Anyway, read the comments. They are the most interesting part!

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Tuesday, October 30, 2007

china

I've been working with a team in China lately and at the same time I seem to have been collecting a few China themed links:

Master patternmaker Chao (via)

• Actually there's a great series of posts about Chinese manufacturing on Bunnie's blog

• And there's a series called An indie designer goes to Hong Kong on Fashion Incubator

Foot Talk writes about the luxury market in China

Reviews of Deluxe: How Luxury Lost it's Luster

(I wish I had a good image to put with this post, but everything I found seemed not right. ah well....)

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Wednesday, July 25, 2007

quickie!



Boing Boing post about a furor over unlucky numbers among cabbies in San Francisco! Link

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Monday, July 23, 2007

I like the juxtaposition of these two artists



Nostalgic Technology
by Svetlana Boym
Her website was a little difficult for me to navigate and make sense of at first, but as I poked around I became more and more enamored with the way Boym approaches technology/machines.

******



Volksboutique
We make Money Not Art presents an interview with Christine Hill. While Hill's aesthetic is lovely, I enjoy more her writing and turn of mind.

P.S. I don't even know why I use these tags. I hope they turn out more helpful than they feel right now. hmm.

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Friday, July 20, 2007

Fashion-Incubator

Anyone who works in clothing design or garment construction or fashion, should check out Fashion-Incubator. The site is run by Kathleen Fasanella with help from some loyal friends from the industry. The website is a treasure trove of wisdom and information as well as a laugh and an occasional bite. There are often great discussions in the comments as well, for F-I's readers are a smart set. Of course, the book that Fasanella wrote is the real source of information if you are looking to start your own business. I haven't bought it, only read a few excerpts, which I doubt would please Fasanella, but if I do go out on my own someday, it's at the top of my list to read. I love to be hands-on in the making process and it's a primary motivator for me in terms of starting a business. One of the hardest things working for a big corporate manufacturer as a designer is that I am so far from the making process.

Anyway, back to Fashion-Incubator, here a few of my favorite bits & features:

A simple post about washing clothes with interesting comments to boot. I'm surprised there wasn't more talk about the damage a dryer can do. I really found this one interesting because my MA collection at CSM was made of some fabrics that changed with water. I did a lot of washing machine experiments last spring! When I came back to the US this year I realized the hard way that American washing machines are much more powerful than UK ones. :(

Fasanella has two regular features that I love: Archives, links to articles from the same time last year and the year before, and News from You, links sent in from readers. Both are always full of interesting tidbits.

The site also haas a decidedly sustainable slant with excellent articles about eco habits to develop and organic cotton.

My all-time favorite post relates to my own interests (of course) about invisible components of our clothes. Kathleen was responding to a project called Carnivale of Couture by the Sewing Divas about Ritual Cloth. Fasanella wrote about a purse, backpack, and a couple of jackets that reveal as much in the pictures as they do in her words.

P.S. Pleating!!

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Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Emotion—why did I title it this?

Last week I mentioned this article about the divide between science and art. And how "I'd like to write a bit more about this one...." so I'm trying to be inspired to write a bit about some pages I think are related. ahem:

Basically the Boing Boing post reviews an article in the Guardian that talks about the division between science and the humanities and whether there is a "third culture" that bridges this divide. They review a website, two books, and a writer. Natalie Angier's comment "Science is rather a state of mind" reminded me of this article I wrote about before. But it makes me look at that article from Business week in a different way. Nussbaum talks about "Design Thinking" (his caps, not mine), in a way that makes me wonder what is 'humanities thinking'? Is there such a thing? Or is it the same as "design thinking" and those are the two sides being talked about in the Guardian article? Maybe "design thinking" is the third culture referred to in the article? Sorry for all the quote marks....

Boing Boing also recently linked to a Douglas Adams lecture titled "Is there an artificial god?" that made my head spin (in a nice way) similar to the article above. It feels like such a lovely way to consider ideas about god and consciousness and humanity. Sadly, perhaps, it makes me want to totally live in my head and stop making things. Funny how doing a lot of in-depth reading can put me off of physical objects....it's almost like there iis a real divide between intellectual thought and physical action (hey.....) that happens so very naturally that its unstoppable. Good thing I have studio space this month or I could feel myself heading into a downward spiral of creation (or is that anti-creation?)

Moving on....a nice pair of articles that I really enjoyed finding together:

From Boing Boing, "Love, Internet Style" Clay Shirky's keynote speech from the Supernova conference in San Francisco that posits love as a predictor of technological success.

Usman Haque's own keynote speech titled "I Hate Technology" reported on We Make Money Not Art (aside: one of my very favorite blogs). Truth be told the LOVE/HATE theme doesn't exactly work because the speech was for the We Love Technology day on July 12 in Huddersfield, GB.

Gilbert Austin, Chironomia (1806), plate 9.

Finally, and totally unrelated to anything about (so much for my circular mind melt) is an article from Cabinet Magazine about gestures lost through time
“By the end of the nineteenth century, the gestures of the Western bourgeoisie were irretrievably lost”: so writes Giorgio Agamben in his 1992 essay, “Notes on Gesture.”

This is a pet love of mine. I did a couple of garments related to Alexander Technique in my first year of grad school. Unfortunately I don't seem to have any pictures handy, but maybe I will find some and revisit this. I love the body/garment connection.

P.S. A new blog I just started digging around on....hmmmm!

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Friday, July 6, 2007

Design III



The David Report writes recently about the dearth of good design, especially noting the Milan Furniture fair, and suggests:

"An adequate question to highlight is if we should call it design, art or design-art or if we have to invent a new category and word for these experiments. Some people call it neo-surrealism or expressionism-design, but we would prefer to refer to it as Vulgarism."

They posit that there is no intellectual base from which the current trends in design can grow. They charge that contemporary designers "are more or less just doing extravagant objects. A kind of design on dope."

Oliver Ike suggests that designers are out to make quick money by being fake artists in their design work. that be dropping the functional aspect of design (a big no-no) they are left with "vulgar pollution" that they sell as art. He also tries to explain under what circumstances design pieces should rightfully be commanding high prices (as objects important to the history of design, not as art objects).

The article includes a great quote from Core 77, “This rising tide of disaffection tends to share two themes: a distaste for the superficiality of design’s media-celebrity nexus; and a growing discomfort with design’s role in generating ’useless stuff’. These two complementary critiques could be abbreviated as Anti-fluff and Anti-stuff.”

Of course there's a few quotes I'm not at ease with like this one, "Likewise we would like to quote a good designer friend of ours who refers to the Vulgarism as design for girl’s magazines (no hard feelings towards girl’s magazines though)…" Nice.

And there's the bits where the authors try to differentiate between artists and designers (quoting the British design council): “Designers, unlike artists, can’t simply follow their creative impulses. They work in a commercial environment which means there is a huge number of considerations influencing the design process. Designers have to ask themselves questions such as: is the product they’re creating really wanted? How is it different from everything else on the market? Does it fulfill a need? Will it cost too much to manufacture? Is it safe?” My instincts tell me this is oversimplified. Design requires so much more than this, and often art demands these questions be answered as well.

Overall, I respect the closing sentiment to the piece, "At David Report we believe in long lasting values as one of the best and most valuable sustainable solutions....We are producing new stuff as if our resources were unlimited. We need to buy less but better products. We need to re-use and re-cycle. The maximalistic work of the Vulgarism is unfortunately something completely different. It’s a blown up bubble of exercise in decoration offering only a hollow shell." I think this outlook is the basis of artwork already (seriously, let that thought roll around a bit), and should be adopted by all designers.

If it's not clear by now, I think art has to be the leader in all of the arenas I've been posting about these last couple of days. Simply put, I don't think money should be the biggest motivator. Maybe that makes me anti-capitalist? I still think the free-market system is okay. I just think, on a personal level, who wants to be the person who values money over everything else in this amazing world? I know we all need a certain amount to live, not contested, but I hope we are talking about after all the basic needs are being met here. I'm sure there will be more posts about this topic, I feel like I am just getting started on something here and I need to develop and refine my thoughts even further, especially in regards to my own work.

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Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Design I

I've got three articles and one thing on my mind, let's see if we can make some connections.

Bruce Nussbaum writes column for Business Week about design. On June 28 he wrote about a speech he made at Innovation Night at the Royal College of Art in London the Tuesday before. Basically he talks about how he thinks CEOs and other business leaders need to be trained as designers because that the best way to see the bigger picture. The article is called CEOs Must Be Designers, Not Just Hire Them. Think Steve Jobs And iPhone. Some choice quotes:

"Designers are the sherpas of culture, the guides to community, the empathizers of the odd and foreign."

In my experience most businesses don't want to be this. They want to be what people already want, not what is strange and new.

"The commoditization of knowledge and tools around the world is leading to a Do It Yourself culture. The democratization of design and innovation is allowing both the wisdom and folly of crowds to directly shape products, services and brands. And the rise of Web 2.0 tools is leading to an explosion of new social networks that allow consumers—people—to be actively engaged in the conversations that shape their lives."

I truly get why people want to DIY, I am one of them. I have struggled how to reconcile my love to make and my loathe to buy. I love to make things. I want people to buy my things if I am going to survive as a designer. I don't really buy a lot of other people's things...I know it's more complex than that (I do buy homewares for example). But the big revelation for me came with the realization that I'd rather buy fewer better (more expensive) than loads of cheap crap.

"Design is so popular today mostly because business sees design as connecting it to the consumer populace in a deep, fundamental and honest way. An honest way. If you are in the myth-making business, you don’t need design. You need a great ad agency. But if you are in the authenticity and integrity business then you have to think design. If you are in the co-creation business today—and you’d better be in this age of social networking—then you have to think of design. Indeed, your brand is increasingly shaped and defined by network communities, not your ad agency. Brand manager? Forget about it. Brand curator maybe."

I feel like he's pushing more cheap crap. I know he says he's not.

"In the world of business, there is no value proposition left for most companies in controlling costs or even quality. All that outsourcing has leveled this playing field. Cost and quality are commoditized today, merely the price of entry to the competitive game."

This is a really important realization about the marketplace right now. In fact I think it supports my vision of the future.

"Design and design thinking—or innovation if you like--are the fresh, new variables that can bring advantage and fat profit margins to global corporations. In today’s global marketplace, being able to understand the consumer, prototype possible new products, services and experiences, quickly filter the good, the bad and the ugly and deliver them to people who want them—well, that is an attractive management methodology. Beats the heck out of squeezing yet one more penny out of your Chinese supply-chain, doesn’t it?"

See, this is the part where I feel like I'm being suckered into something I don't really care for.

"Let me emphasize this. I think managers have to BECOME designers, not just hire them. I think CEOs have to embrace design thinking, not just hire someone who gets it. I think many business schools have to merge with design schools, not just play poke and tickle with them."

Maybe what really needs to happen is business schools need to rethink what future business goals should be instead of trying to combine with with design schools. Not that there isn't something to learn from those partnerships, but come on businesspeople! DIY!

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